Ask an Artist: Chemo Care

By Jessi

PL Reader: I’m about to start a course of chemotherapy, and I know I’ll have to change up my beauty routine as the inevitable hair loss occurs. Can you give me some new tricks I can rely on?

Jessi: I want to begin by stating that I’m terribly sorry to hear of your health issues and wish a speedy recovery after chemotherapy. I lost a grandmother 10 years ago to stomach cancer, so this subject is very dear to me!

: Courtesy of chickjunk.com

Brow shaping:

The first thing you should do is have a picture of yourself as your basis for what your brows naturally are shaped like and try to use that as your guideline. If you don’t feel comfortable drawing in your brows, then by all means go stencil shopping! And when shopping, make sure that the brow color matches your natural hair color, (if you wear a wig, and it’s a different color than natural, make sure to be within your natural color and the wig color choice, not darker than the wig). I also suggest a sealer of types for after your brow application, this will help you waterproof your brow look for an even longer wear. Unfortunately every climate and skin type is different so I will suggest a few highly recommended products!

A great tip I always use is the pencil trick. I really don’t remember where I got it from but it really is a “no fail” trick. Place a pencil next to and parallel to your nose. The top of the pencil should be at the beginning inner point of your brow, then if you rotate the pencil holding it at your nose in the direction towards your ear, (following the length of the brow), your highest point or arch in your brow should be where your pencil is just past your iris. Try it, it really works!

When you find your stencil, or eye shape. Draw on the brows with your pencil in a upward motion mimicking the look of short brow hairs. When you have your desired amount and shape of brow, blend with a clean mascara spoolie or brow brush to soften. Then apply a sealer on top to assure all day, smudge proof wear!

Stencils

Anastasia of Beverly Hills Brow Stix, $14.00: This product comes in 3 different sizes with 5 disposable and self adhesive stencils, for easy application

Anastasia of Beverly Hills Stencils, $20.00: This product comes in 5 different sizes made out of durable plastic they are easy to clean and reusable.

From the Anastasia website:

Petite Arch – Suggested for small facial features
Slim High Arch – Recommended for brows in training, growth challenged, thin or sparse brows
Medium Arch – Suggested for straight, flat brows or brows with little to no natural arch
High Arch – Suggested for full brows and larger facial features
Full Arch – Recommended for the fullest shape and larger facial features

Ardell Brow Perfection Stencils, $3.99: One package has 4 brow sizes, easy to clean and reusable.

Brow Pencils

Dior Powder Brow Pencil, $26: With three shades to choose from this duo pencil with a shadow color on one side and pencil color on the other. Long wearing even in warm weather.

Anastasia of Beverly Hills Perfect Brow Pencil, $22: Six shades to choose from, and a double ended pencil, one side with the shade and the other a brow brush for blending.

Make Up For Ever Eyebrow Pencil, $18: Five colors to choose from with long lasting effect

Sephora Eye Brow Pencil, $10: Only three colors to choose from, with long wear and a eye brow color blending brush on the lid.

Beautique Brow Pencil, $2.99: six shades available, also double ended with a brow brush, and are smudge proof.

Sealers

Benefit Cosmetics She Laq, $30: A clear liquid that seals makeup with stay put power, leaving it smudge proof. It comes with 5 different brushes for all of your stay put needs! This stuff really works, it just leaves a shiny effect. Be sure to lightly dust powder over to dull.

: Courtesy of Sephora.com

Model in a Bottle Long Lasting Eye Brow Sealer and/or Original/Sensitive Formula Spray, $12-$18. The Model in a Bottle is Sheila tested and approved! I saw the Eyebrow sealer and HAD to mention it! This product delivers a matte finish after application for sealing your look all day through any weather, either all over or just for your brows.

Lashes and Eyeliner

To achieve a lash line or a tight line close to your eye. The easiest product I suggest is to use a eyeliner, (angled) brush with a cake liner. You can also use a really sharp eyeliner pencil then smudge proof with the Benefit She Laq I mentioned above. The smudge proof cake liners that I love are the following, and you can purchase them in a variety of colors.

MAC Cosmetics Fluidline, $15

Smashbox Jet Set Waterproof Eye Liner, $22

For an idea of what the eyeliner brush should look like, this is the easiest one to use if you aren’t used to lining eyes with a brush.

MAC Small Angle Brush, $19.50

If you want to have lashes, you can purchase shorter lashes that really look natural. The trick is to line the eye before applying lashes to help hide the false lash seam line. And if you don’t want to apply the lashes or, with lashes for a more dramatic look, then apply the liner to the upper lash/inner rim of the eye with the liners I suggested. Do this by pulling eyelid away from eye by raising brow with index finger then apply carefully. It certainly takes practice. But practice makes perfect!